nH2O and iron(III) oxide-hydroxide FeO(OH).Rust consists of hydrated iron(III) oxides Fe2O3 Several forms of rust are distinguishable visually and by spectroscopy, and form under different circumstances. Other forms of rust exist, like the result of reactions between iron and chloride in an environment deprived of oxygen – rebar used in underwater concrete pillars is an example – which generates green rust. In colloquial usage, the term is applied to red oxides, formed by the reaction of iron and oxygen in the presence of water or air moisture. You don't know how rust works? WTF?Rust is composed of iron oxides. You wouldn't want to get flamed now, would you? I suggest you take a night class in the classification of motorcycles, and get the class your bike will be assigned to correct before building, so you don't look like a poser who doesn't spend enough time on the internet researching bikes. Some people take the terminology and classification of motorcycles very seriously, and you surely do not want to offend such folk. It can start the discussion on whether its a rat bike, rust rocket, etc. Just remember the worst thing about doing this to your bike. Probably not the best thing to be breathing, but fuck it. you can go back to blend the color together, it takes a little practice and smells like shit. Its a slow process, you can do 2-3 inches of frame at a time. then rub a rag soaked in the plum brown on the metal until it cools. Get whatever you want rusted down to bare metal, and heat with a torch until water just barely sizzles on it. Get some of this shit, you can find it at a good gun shop usually. I'll let you in on my little secret and won't even make you tickle my balls first. The fender and oil tank I had to patina myself, as well as the frame in a lot of places after welding on it. The frame is natural rust, the tank was in a barn fire, and the seat is 100 years old. I have done a few others successfully.My bike is all rust or patina or whatever you call it. When I get time I'll redo this and get rid of the streaks and fingerprints. I haven't done any research on it.Īfter: splotchy and streaked with fingerprints - didn't wear gloves when spreading artificial patina gel around But I'm not sure tobacco being the culprit. So that is tar which didn't go into somebody's lung. My guess is that the hats sat set up on a kit in a smoky environment for years. All 3 other surfaces looked very clean as the SE bottom does in the photo. I've also got some pics of a big fail I had recently in that department too.īefore: very gunky top (under the SE bottom hat). The only thing is that if you clean hard, it is a whole new project to put an artificial patina back. And the only way to find out if cleaning makes a difference to what you hear is to try it. But cleaning is not the same thing as polishing something to a brilliant shine. I'm reminded that if the tonal grooves are completely gunked up then you might notice a slight difference if you do a little clean (soap and water) to remove that. I didn't seem to make a sonic difference I could detect, and I was sort of thinking that it was so gunked up cleaning it might make a sonic difference. I too have cleaned just one hi hat top which was very covered in gunk (probably beyond what would be called just patina). I couldn't even detect the weight loss due to cutting out a small crack (and I thought I might). Difference in weight? I haven't got a scale that accurate.
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